Fine fiddle
La Viola hits just the right notes with generous portions of delicious Southern Italian fare
by William Fox
La Viola is a spacious, handsome restaurant that serves Italian food the old-fashioned way, family style. That is, one large serving dish per order for the entire table, each portion usually doled out by the waiter, but in our case only sometimes.
Other service gaffes we could have done without: The waiter ran through the daily specials so quickly we couldn't remember any of them; didn't come by with grated cheese for our pasta; failed to replace the delicious breads when we ran out; and became apoplectic when we asked for red wine when we ordered fish as a shared main course. All this made our experience less than it should have been. Warning us that we were ordering too much, and not presenting the check until we asked for it, though, were pluses.
Located in one of South Florida's more attractive strip malls, you enter the restaurant under a porte-cochere. An impressive-looking polished wood bar with brass railings is on the right. At the back of the room is a glass-enclosed kitchen. Sections of glass brick add a light deco touch. Picture windows front the parking lot. The dining area is one large room with a high ceiling and, as you'd expect, the noise level was uncomfortably high, exacerbated by a nearby table of inconsiderate loudmouths. At least we didn't hear any cell phones going off.
Fortunately, the food was better than the service. The cold antipasto ($12.25) was a thing of beauty, to look at and to savor, and reminiscent of similar renditions served in traditional Italian restaurants of a bygone era. Flanking the plate were roasted green peppers and fiery jalapenos. In the center were tomato wedges, red onions, black olives, tasty shrimp and crab meat; marinated squid so tender it melted in your mouth; spongy fresh mozzarella; anchovies; and provolone-wrapped prosciutto. Each of these items was exemplary, and more than enough for three hungry people.
If there are better baked clams ($12.50) around, I'd like to know where I can find them, because these were excellent. Buttery bread crumbs seasoned with garlic and lemon covered clams that were as fresh, tender and sweet as you'd find anywhere. Additional appetizers included zuppa di clams ($14.50), zuppa di mussels ($12), fried calamari ($11.75), roasted peppers and anchovies ($9.75) and three salads.
A dozen pasta dishes ($11.95-$21.95) are offered, among them linguine with red or white clam sauce, and with shrimp, seafood, marinara, pomodoro and prosciutto. Penne is baked with oil and garlic or with broccoli. Rigatoni alla vodka (vodka rarely appears in this dish) was classically al dente, and the creamy tomato sauce was laced with cheese. The dish was good, but not great. On Monday, Tuesday and Thursday, Viola offers individual servings of linguine with lobster, mussels, clams and calamari for $14.95, a good deal to be sure.
Entrees consisted mostly of Southern Italian fare - chicken, veal or eggplant parmigiana, chicken or veal piccata, chicken and peppers, shrimp marinara and filet of sole Francese. Most are priced (family-style) in the upper teen to the lower $20 range. But the prices jump significantly if you order broiled steak ($34) or a broiled veal chop ($35). Snapper Livornaise was a daily special at $32. If ever sight, aroma and taste exemplified true Italian cookery, this dish was it. Thick, fresh and moist snapper fillets smothered in fresh tomatoes, onions and capers were redolent of their flavors. An absolutely fine dish. Chicken, veal and eggplant parmigiana were also classically turned out.
Desserts ($4.50 each) were few but very Italian - tortoni, tiramisu, chocolate cake, American-style cheesecake and ricotta cheesecake. The ricotta cheesecake, absent candied fruit, was light and moist but could have had more flavor. Tiramisu was also appropriately light - layers of tasty sponge cake topped with creamy mascarpone cheese.
La Viola offers hearty portions of richly seasoned southern Italian comfort foods in an attractive environment.
HOW TO GET THERE: I-95 to Palmetto Park Road. East to Federal Highway, south to the Royal Palm Plaza. Left on Mizner Boulevard.
LA VIOLA
145 S.E. Mizner Blvd., Boca Raton, 561/368-0453. (Also at 6861 S.W. 18th St., Boca Raton, 561/394-6120). Dinner nightly 5-10, till 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Separate smoking section. Major credit cards accepted. Wheelchair accessible. Dinner tab for two, tax and tip included, wine excluded: $75
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